Foreword

It’s no doubt that 3rd Gen 4Runners are gaining popularity these days with the rise in “overlanding” because of the fact that they do the job well. These trucks are a fantastic option, not only for daily driving use, but also for weekend getaways off the beaten path, and can even be properly set up for long distance and long-term vehicle based travel. However, there are a few things you should know if you’re looking to get yourself into one of these gems. Continue reading as I lay out a bit of history on these vehicles, explain what to look for when buying one, and clear up a few misconceptions that are out there.

A Brief History

The 4Runner is a Sport Utility Vehicle (SUV) designed and manufactured by Toyota in Japan from 1984 to present day. In its early years, (1984 – 1995) the 4Runner was considered to be a compact SUV but was later increased to a mid-sized SUV (1995 -present) as the newer models grew in size and luxury. Each generation further distanced itself from competition and its previous models by offering more cargo room and better quality interiors. Still, to this day, all 4Runners have been built in Japan at Toyota’s plant in Tahara, Aichi or at the Hino Motors plant in Hamura. In my opinion, Toyota did a great job combining durability with functionality all while being aesthetically pleasing, keeping more of the boxy off-road look that many people love. Over the years, Toyota has designed five different generations of the 4Runner. Today, we will be taking a look at generation number 3- my favourite!

My History With The 3rd Gen 4Runner

In April 2017, I purchased my used 4Runner locally from a used car website. It was nothing fancy and was bone stock. To be honest, I didn’t even fully understand what I had just purchased and what the possibilities really were from an SUV like this. In my mind, it was only to be used as my daily driver. Well, as I grew fonder of this now somewhat vintage truck and learned more about it, my imagination sky-rocketed with everything I now wanted to do with it. Since purchasing this vehicle 4 years ago, I’ve taken it all over central and western Canada including Saskatchewan, Alberta, and British Columbia as well as down into the States several times for longer stints of travel. It has been one of the best travel companions I could ask for and has continued to inspire me in different parts of my life. It is the reason I decided to create a website to share my experiences through writing, photography, and videography. However, not all of my experiences with the 4Runner have been good, in fact, many of them have been very, very bad. I’ve experienced just about every problem known to these vehicles and have had several catastrophic break downs leaving me stranded, sometimes in remote locations. So, when you hear people talk about how robust and indestructible these trucks are, take it with a grain of salt, every vehicle has its limitations. These 4Runners are good but, are they really that good? Let’s find out.

Inspecting The Vehicle Before Purchase

So, you’ve found a nice example of a clean 3rd Gen 4Runner on your local used auto website- that’s great! Now it’s time to go have a look at the thing in person to see if it’s really as good as the ad says it is. My very first tip to inspecting the vehicle is to remove those rose coloured glasses and look at it for what it really is. In order to save yourself a big headache and a ton of $$$, you need to go in with a pessimistic attitude. Be honest with yourself about how much time and money you’re willing to put into it. If you’re willing to put in a fair amount of time and cash into fixing one of these trucks, you can set your standards a bit lower. But who knows, maybe it really is as good as it sounds!

Ready for the longest, most in-depth list you’ve ever seen? Good luck!

• Engine Fluids
  Take a good look at all of the engine fluids such as engine oil, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, transmission fluid, and clutch fluid if you’re buying a manual.
  *TIP* – Check the fluids first when they’re cold, then again after test driving the vehicle when they’re warm. Do you notice any changes? It could be a warning sign if levels, colour, clarity or concentration have changed after a drive. In order to do this, you must insist to the seller that the vehicle needs to have sat for several hours before you inspect it.
  If you do not know how to properly check these fluids, a quick google search will find you well.
  *TIP*- Factory Toyota coolant is red. Bonus points if the vehicle you’re looking at is using red coolant. This is a good sign that the vehicle has been properly maintained. Or, it could indicate that it has never had a coolant flush, and that it’s still running the original 25 year old coolant… I’ll let you be the judge of that.

• Cold Start the Engine
  After introducing yourself to the seller as the person who wishes to buy their used junk, hop in, start it up, and look at the temperature gauge. Make sure the needle reads cold, this is important.
  Now that you have just started the engine and the temp gauge reads cold, take a listen. You should hear the engine running at a high-ish RPM (1500) and, you should hear the radiator fan running loudly. These are good signs.
  As the engine increases to operating temperature, the loud fan noise will stop and the RPM level should drop. Idling at full operating temperature, the engine RPM should be between 800 and 900. If the RPM is still higher than 1000 at full operating temperature, you have a problem. Strike one. In this game, you get 15 strikes and trust me, you’ll need every last one of them. This is not a big problem but it should be noted. When the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, or both age, they no longer properly regulate the amount of air going into the engine at idle. To compensate for their old age, they raise the RPM. Kind of like having high blood pressure. To solve this problem, they will either need to be cleaned or replaced. No reason to walk away just yet but, keep that in mind. High idle is a very common problem on these trucks.

• Detecting fluid leaks
  This may be obvious but I’ll throw it in anyway. Are there any oil or fluid spots under the vehicle? Take a good look- not just under the engine- but from front to back, side to side, all the way to the rear bumper.
  If you see any, do your best to ignore them… Just kidding, determine the amount and rate at which the leak is occurring. Is it gushing out, or sweating just a little? Either way, leaks can be fixed! (With the right amount of money of course)
  Here are the most common places to see leaks on these trucks: (Oh boy, a list within a list)
  – Valve cover gaskets, radiator, radiator hoses, steering rack, oil pan, coolant overflow bottle, transfer case output shaft, rear pinion seal, rear main seal, rear axle seals, and the transmission oil pan. I have in fact had to replace all of these gaskets, seals, and hoses.
  *TIP*- The original radiator in these trucks was an olive-green colour and did not last very long at all. If the original radiator is still in the vehicle, it could be creating all sorts of trouble. Hopefully this ancient thing we call a 4Runner has had the radiator replaced at least once in its life. More on this in “Transmission Problems”
  *TIP*- You can detect a leak with your nose too! Shut the engine off after its gotten hot and you’ve test driven the truck. Pop the hood again and take a good strong whiff. Do you smell anything burnt? Hopefully not, but this is another indication of something that may be leaking that you cannot detect with just your eyes.
  
• Take it for a drive
  Now that you’ve determined that the vehicle has wheels and is not dumping oil all over the ground, hop in and take it for a drive! It is important to be able to drive somewhere you can get up to highway speeds. While you’re driving, you want to be listening for any clunking, rattling or other abnormal sounds. If the vehicle has higher mileage and has not been well maintained over the years, you may hear these noises while cornering, going over bumps, and during braking and acceleration. It’s almost unheard of to find a used 4X4 vehicle with higher mileage without some sort of odd noise coming from some part of the suspension. Don’t let it scare you too much. Every worn bushing, shock and ball joint can be replaced! Other than listening for those pesky clunks, how does the truck feel? Is it steady through the curves? Do you feel any weird vibrations? Does it accelerate and come to a stop with ease? How does the steering feel? Does the transmission shift smoothly? While you’re driving straight, wiggle the steering wheel back and forth. Does the vehicle respond sharply to your inputs or is it rather sloppy? Being aware of all these things will give you a good sense of the truck’s overall health and how much attention it will need once you get it home.
  *TIP*- Pull into a parking lot, come to a complete stop and test the 4X4 making sure that all the systems work the way they are supposed to. If you are fortunate enough to find one with a rear locker, shift the vehicle into 4-Low, then press the E-Locker button located to the left of the steering wheel labeled “RR DIFF LOCK.” The red light will illuminate on the dash, flash for several seconds, then turn solid. If it doesn’t turn solid after a few seconds, roll forward slowly and proceed to drive in a circle. SLOWLY. If the locker still doesn’t engage, you may have a faulty actuator. No big deal.

• Interior Problems
  Mold. It’s real and it’s there. Maybe… These old trucks have a terrible problem with leaky sunroofs. So, all you have to do is never drive in the rain or any other inclement weather. Sound good? Didn’t think so. When I bought my 4Runner, I had no idea of this type of problem and guess what. I’ve got a bit of mold growing right where the top of the windshield meets the headliner. This is due to the sunroof drain holes clogging up with dirt and other debris from the early 2000s. Nasty stuff for sure. When you’re sitting in the drivers seat, take a look around the head liner, checking for any water spots. Chances are you may find a few. Again, this is not something to be overly concerned with unless you’re squeamish around germs and bacteria in which I would strongly recommend not buying someone else’s used car anyway. On the bright side, the headliner can easily be removed and cleaned or replaced and the sunroof drain holes can be un-clogged.
  *TIP*- Make sure the dash clock works. There’s a good chance it stopped working around early 2005. Also, don’t forget to test all the other little things inside the vehicle- like making sure all the windows roll up and down, all the locks work, the radio works, the AC blows cold, and the heat works. These are small details that are easily forgotten when going to look at a used vehicle that can become rather annoying once you realize after the fact that they don’t work.
  
• Transmission Problems
  I would have included this section in “Take It For A Drive,” however, I really felt it needed a category all on its own. Now, for the record, my 4Runner has an automatic transmission so that is what I will be referencing. If you’ve found one with a manual, congratulations, now stop rubbing it in and skip to the next section. The biggest issue with these transmissions is, well, not even the transmission at all. In fact, that old radiator that’s never had a coolant flush before could be the real culprit for your transmission problems. Toyota had the idea to link these two very different systems together using the radiator. They put the transmission cooler inside the radiator to assist with cooling the transmission fluid. Sounds good on paper but, there’s a problem. When these radiators and transmission coolers get old, they corrode and rot from the inside out. This is unfortunate because when it happens, coolant and transmission fluid mix together and well, I’m sure you can guess what happens next. The coolant, transmission fluid mix is fed directly back to the transmission, causing all sorts of problems. The transmission is no longer being lubricated properly and the radiator is full of transmission fluid. The ultimate mix! Not to worry, there’s an easy way to tell if your transmission is bubbling with coolant or not. Open up the coolant overflow reservoir and take a look at what’s in there. What does it look like? Like I mentioned earlier, Toyota uses red coolant; however, the transmission fluid also happens to be red. Perfect. The way to tell if they’re mixing? Coolant is a clear red with the consistency of water. Transmission fluid is an opaque oily substance that is more viscus than coolant. Now that you know what they look like in their own forms, you may be wondering what they look like mixed. Two words for you, strawberry milkshake. Take another quick google search for “3rd Gen 4Runner Strawberry Milkshake.” You’ll be amazed and also wonder who put melted pink ice cream in these peoples radiators. So far, I’ve been quite optimistic about this whole buying experience deal, telling you that all of the previous problems can be fixed or replaced quite easily. This however, is a problem of a different magnitude and if you happen to see it, run as far and as fast as your legs can take you. But in all seriousness, this is a big problem that will require thousands of dollars worth of maintenance to correct. The transmission and radiator will have to be replaced, not to mention cleaning out the entire cooling system and replacing all the fluids. It’s a mess. Steer clear. Please.
  
• Suspension, Brakes, Wheel Bearings and Steering
  Wow, I’m surprised your still here! Looks like you really want one of these things. Well, there’s no judgment coming from me, I bought one too! And without anyone giving me these juicy tips. Count yourself lucky! A big part of the inspection process revolves around the suspension, brakes, bearings, and steering. I’ll outline a few major problems to look out for then get on with the other small details.

• Suspension
  -Our first contender is the front lower ball joints. I cannot stress enough to you how important it is that you thoroughly inspect these parts on the vehicle. These ball joints are located on the lower control arm, closest to the tire. Their main job is to connect the hub assembly to the control arm all while being able to move freely during steering and while going over bumps. When they fail, (and they frequently do) they have the potential of completely writing the vehicle off due to the nature of their design. When the ball joint fails, the front wheel and tire are no longer completely attached to the control arm, creating a catastrophic failure. Do another quick search for images of 4Runner lower ball joint failures. In 2005, Toyota recalled over 750,000 3rd Gen 4Runners for this exact issue. For information on how to inspect the lower ball joints, I highly recommend watching “Timmy The Tool Man’s” video called “Checking for Play in Lower Ball Joints”. It’s a short and sweet video, just over five minutes in length, showing exactly how to do the inspection. Anyway, if you do find play in the ball joints, either make the commitment to have them replaced immediately or keep looking for another truck. This is not a topic you want to mess around with.
  -As for the rest of the suspension, do your best to detect any leaks coming from any of the shocks and make a note on what type of suspension the vehicle is running. Is it still running factory shocks and springs from 1997 that are completely clapped out? Or, has someone already upgraded to aftermarket suspension that’s maybe even lifted a few inches? While you’re looking at the shocks, take a peek at the springs as well. Do they still appear healthy, or are they rather sad and rusty looking? Also, do your best to determine if the springs have cracked anywhere, it’s more common than you think to find a crack. While you’re looking at the shocks and springs at the front of the vehicle, it’s also a good idea to have a look at the upper control arms. They also use a ball joint system, but thankfully, I’ve never heard of one causing catastrophic failure. They do wear out after a while though and can be a source of clunking. Look to see if the small rubber boot around the ball joint is in tact and not ripped to shreds. Also, take a look at the control arm itself looking for any bends or other damage.
  -When you’re looking at the vehicles rear suspension, it’s good practice to inspect the rear control arms and panhard bar. Pay attention to the rubber bushings on these components. Does the rubber still look fresh or does it look dry and cracked? Grab a hold of one and give it a few good tugs back and forth. Notice any clunking? Do this for both rear control arms and the panhard bar.

• Brakes
  This topic is pretty straight forward but I’ll give it a quick run through.
  – First and foremost, be sure the brakes actually work. Sometimes they’re quite spongy and unresponsive in these old trucks.
  -While driving the vehicle, do you notice the brake pedal pulsating while coming to a stop? This indicates that the brake rotors have been warped due to excessive amounts of heat building up during a hard stop. Easy fix.
  -Ask the owner if they have ever done any sort of maintenance to the brakes like changing the pads or rotors. Also, ask if the drums and shoes have been done in the rear.
  -This was covered in “Engine Fluids” but if you haven’t already, check the brake fluid. It should be sort of a clear yellow fluid.
  -Make sure the E-Brake goes fully up and fully down. This is extremely important. More on this in “Rear Axle Fun“

• Wheel Bearings
  -While test driving the vehicle on the highway, listen for any sort of droning sound. When wheel bearings wear, this is one of the first signs. I suppose you could also describe it as a humming sound.
  -More obvious symptoms of bad wheel bearings are sounds of grinding, clicking, popping, clunking, and in bad cases, the feeling of wheel wobble or vibration.
  -In my opinion, you should always replace the wheel bearings after you buy a used vehicle anyway, just to have peace of mind that they’ve been serviced. Not a lot of things have the potential to leave you stranded on the side of the road but if a wheel bearing fails, you’ll be out of luck. Ask me how I know.

• Steering
  I would have to say that steering is one of my least favourite topics to cover, mainly because of how the system in these trucks is not robust what so ever. I’ve had to replace my steering rack and tie rods three times in four years. Now, to be fair, I do use my vehicle in harsh conditions and take it off road whenever I can. At some point I’ll just have to accept the fact that I’ll be replacing the steering rack every year. If you buy one of these trucks for hard off road use, you will be too. I don’t know why but that’s just the way it is. Unless the rack has recently been replaced on the vehicle you’re looking at, assume it’s hot flaming garbage.
  -If you need more than just my word for it, perform this test: Have someone laying under the truck while it’s running (and in park) looking at the steering rack. Have someone inside the truck turning the steering wheel back and forth in quick sharp movements. If the person under the truck notices any movement or flex in the rack, the bushings are no good and should probably be replaced at some point. It’s not urgent by any means but it is important to note.
  -Do you see any fluid leaking from the steering rack boots? This indicates that the seals holding the power steering fluid have gone bad.
  -Either have the rack replaced or rebuilt. I recommend buying a remanufactured rack. They’re a cheap option, and since you’ll be doing this job frequently, don’t waste any more money than you need to on a new rack.

• Rear Axle Fun
  I look at the rear axle like a team of players. For the most part, the team is strong but everyone has their weaknesses- and a team is only as strong as its weakest player. Let’s start with the positives for once, shall we? For one, it’s a coil sprung rear end instead of leaf sprung. This is a big plus, in my opinion, for comfort on longer trips. Leaf springs ride rougher than coil springs, so after a long day in the vehicle, you’re likely to be more fatigued in a leaf sprung vehicle. Another strong point for the rear axle, in my experience, is the rear differential/ third member/ final drive/ whatever you want to call it. My vehicle clocked over 350,000 kilometres on the factory rear differential gears, bearings, and seals before needing a rebuild- and even then, I didn’t see anything wrong with it, I just wanted a project to work on so I had the bearings and seals replaced and the back lash adjusted. Now on to the fun stuff, the stuff that breaks!
  I mentioned earlier in “Suspension, Brakes, Wheel Bearings and Steering” that you need to be sure the E-Brake is fully functional. This is because, often times, the E-Brake cable becomes seized while it’s partially engaged and you cannot pull up on the hand lever in the car. Picture trying to drive a vehicle with the E-Brake engaged. It’s not a pretty sight. Now, keep driving for thousands of miles with it engaged. Something is bound to fail. What will it be? I’ll tell you. Heat builds up in the rear brake drums when driving with the E-Brake on, possibly causing the rear axle seals to start leaking (they don’t like heat). This creates a big mess because when you finally notice the axle seals leaking out of the end of the axle and down onto the rear tire, onto the ground, it’s too late. If the axle fluid gets past the seal, it will soak through and wash out all of the grease in the wheel bearings and further soak through into the brake shoes. So, when it comes time to fix the $20 axle seal, you’ll also have to replace the wheel bearings and brake assembly because they will have been destroyed by the axle oil. It’s a disgusting mess and I hope you never have to deal with it. So how do you avoid this chaos? Make sure the E-Brake works!
  But wait, there’s more! That annoying E-Brake isn’t the only thing that can cause your axle seals to leak. A clogged rear diff breather is one of your worst enemies. 2 seconds, that’s all it takes, to check and make sure this thing is functioning properly. Get under the rear of the vehicle, look at the left side of the rear diff pumpkin. You should see a little nipple looking-thing with a cap on it. Grab it, twist it, make sure the cap moves freely and isn’t seized shut on the breather (nipple looking-thing). This breather is a vent for your axle for when the air inside heats up and needs to release the built up pressure. If the breather is clogged or seized shut, guess where that pressure is going to escape? You guessed it, out the rear axle seals. Such a mess.

Check your E-Brake, Check your diff breather. That is all.

• Questions to ask about the engine
  The Lightning Round!
  -Has the oil and coolant been changed?
  -Has the timing belt been replaced?
  -Has has the air filter been replaced or cleaned?
  -Are there any visible leaks?
  -Have any of the other engine belts been changed?
  -Has the battery been replaced?
  -Are there any issues with the starter?
  -Have the valve cover gaskets been changed?
  -Has the radiator been replaced?
  
• On Rust
  Saving the best for last.
  Probably the most important, and a major reason to walk away would be rust. It’s on the body, it’s on the frame, it’s in my hair, it’s everywhere. These vehicles are notorious for being rusted out pigs. A little surface rust here and there, never hurt anyone. Heck, my vehicle has its own share of surface rust and I’m ok with that.
  *TIP*- Bring a hammer with you when you go to inspect the vehicle. While you’re under it, start lightly tapping the frame with the hammer. If you happen to create any new holes… that’s your cue to leave. Do not go around smashing the vehicle with the hammer! Light taps only. Look in the door jams, the frame, the control arms, the roof, hell I’d even look under the seats. My point is, check for rust. Everywhere.

Final Thoughts

As you may have gathered, these old 4Runners can be a handful if you don’t properly inspect them before purchase and if you’re not ready to keep up with maintenance costs. It’s likely that the vehicle you’re wanting to buy won’t have all of these problems, and if it does, I feel terribly sorry for your wallet. Millage is a big factor to think about before buying. Higher millage isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as long as the vehicle has been maintained.

All of these points aside, it is truly a treat to drive one of these older trucks. Mine brings a smile to my face every time I drive it. They are full to the brim of character and never cease to amaze me with their off-road capability. All you truly need to get out and play is a good set of tires, some determination, and a tank of gas. Yeah, they may not be the fastest or the biggest or the newest or the whatever. In short, if you take care of it, it will take care of you. Are they as bullet proof as everyone says? Hell no. Are they a damn good option though? Hell yes. You have to keep in mind that these things are 25 years old and still putting up a good fight against brand new trucks. That says a lot. Their classic looks and simple design makes them fun and easy to work on and their character makes them a blast to drive. Don’t forget, there isn’t much “luxury” in these vehicles. They’re purpose built and ride like grandpas old farm truck. If you don’t expect much more, you’ll have a fantastic time owning one of these soon to be classics! So get out there and do it!

Afterword

I want to be clear when giving advice about these vehicles, I am not a certified mechanic nor an expert in this matter. I can only call on my own experiences about my own vehicle. Also, my vehicle has had many modifications applied to it. Some of these modifications (take bigger tires for example) wear suspension components and other parts of the vehicle much faster than a factory parts and specifications. This article is meant to give you a basic understanding of the 3rd Gen 4Runner and what it may be like to own one. It is not “be all, end all” advice. Please also take in mind by bias towards this vehicle. I love mine.

Did this article help you with the purchase of your 3rd Gen 4Runner? We want to know! Leave a comment or send us an email.